We all survived our trip, however our blog did not. When we arrived in Albuquerque (the first time), our campsite's wi-fi was down. At Mesa Verde, the wi-fi, which was usually very slow, was even slower due to bad weather. Monument Valley campsite didn't even have flushing toilets, so wi-fi was out of the question. The Grand Canyon charged too much, and by that time we all just gave up! I will make an attempt this week to update each day's activities, and invite the other participants to also add to the posts.
Overall the Wild Southwest Tour was a success. We learned a lot, walked a lot, drove a lot, ate a lot and laughed a lot. We met new people and tasted new foods. We ate at 5-star restaurants and we ate a lot of sandwiches at rest stops. We traveled by seven different modes of transport: private vehicle, walking, boat, tramway, shuttle bus, train, and Segway. We went from nearly sea level to almost 8,000 feet in elevation. Some days it was hot and sunny and one day it was cold and hailing. We saw famous artwork from all over the world and we sat on the rim of the Grand Canyon and created our own. Between us we took a couple thousand photos and a couple hours of video (looking forward to the DVD!).
Monday, June 21, 2010
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Day 12: Grand Canyon National Park - the South Rim
We met our guide from the Grand Canyon Learning Institute at 8:30 this morning. Elaine is a long time fan of the Grand Canyon, finally making the switch from accountant to trail guide some years ago. Because she is employed by the GCLI and does private hire guiding, she lives outside the Park. However it's a rule that if you work for the Park Service or Xanterra (who are contracted to run the shops, hotels and restaurants) you have to live at the Park.
Our first stop was Kolb Studio, which is perched right on the edge of the Canyon. The Kolb brothers took photos of visitors, made movies of their exploits in the Canyon and collected the toll for using the Bright Angel Trail. Emory and Ellsworth Kolb would take photos of the visitors as they went down the Bright Angel Trail (think in terms of the modern roller coaster photos taken by the amusement parks), and have the photos developed and ready for sale by the time the visitors were back up from the bottom. Because of our private guide, we were able to fully tour the living quarters of the house which has been beautifully restored a la early 20th century.
We continued along the Rim Trail all the way to Grandview Point, eating lunch outside the El Tovar Lodge. Along the way we learned about different types of stone in the Grand Canyon, Fred Harvey and the Harvey Girls, Verkamps, the Havasupai and Mary Jane Coulter. The free shuttle bus took us back to the Bright Angel Lodge and Hopi House, where we saw a demonstration of Hopi music and dancing. A group of young people from the Hopi Nation performed the Eagle Dance, Basket Dance, Butterfly Dance and Hoop Dance, as well as Native American sign language. After a great photo op, we walked back to Maswick Lodge via the Mule Barn, the railroad, the old Power Station and one of the Park's Community Centers. Although it would have been great to spend more time with Elaine, but we had to go back and get ready for supper at El Tovar.
You know you're in a fancy restaurant when the first thing they show you is the dessert selection! Our reservation was for 8:00 pm, but we weren't seated until nearly 8:30. Having seen the dessert table, we were all very conscious to save room and we ordered lightly. Most of us ordered a lemony pasta with vegetables and shrip, Charles had Mahi-Mahi and Bethany couldn't resist another steak. Waiting for dessert to be delivered, Ashley fell asleep, so I had to poke her in the arm (with hindsight, I should have let her sleep so we could have stolen her dessert). Again we were fairly unified in ordering dessert, with most having flourless chocolate cake with walnut crust, but I had a butterscotch chantilly tart and Anna had lemon creme brulee. No wonder we slept well! It was too close to midnight when we got back to Maswick Lodge, and we were to meet Elaine the next morning at 7:00 am to hike down into the Canyon.
Our first stop was Kolb Studio, which is perched right on the edge of the Canyon. The Kolb brothers took photos of visitors, made movies of their exploits in the Canyon and collected the toll for using the Bright Angel Trail. Emory and Ellsworth Kolb would take photos of the visitors as they went down the Bright Angel Trail (think in terms of the modern roller coaster photos taken by the amusement parks), and have the photos developed and ready for sale by the time the visitors were back up from the bottom. Because of our private guide, we were able to fully tour the living quarters of the house which has been beautifully restored a la early 20th century.
We continued along the Rim Trail all the way to Grandview Point, eating lunch outside the El Tovar Lodge. Along the way we learned about different types of stone in the Grand Canyon, Fred Harvey and the Harvey Girls, Verkamps, the Havasupai and Mary Jane Coulter. The free shuttle bus took us back to the Bright Angel Lodge and Hopi House, where we saw a demonstration of Hopi music and dancing. A group of young people from the Hopi Nation performed the Eagle Dance, Basket Dance, Butterfly Dance and Hoop Dance, as well as Native American sign language. After a great photo op, we walked back to Maswick Lodge via the Mule Barn, the railroad, the old Power Station and one of the Park's Community Centers. Although it would have been great to spend more time with Elaine, but we had to go back and get ready for supper at El Tovar.
You know you're in a fancy restaurant when the first thing they show you is the dessert selection! Our reservation was for 8:00 pm, but we weren't seated until nearly 8:30. Having seen the dessert table, we were all very conscious to save room and we ordered lightly. Most of us ordered a lemony pasta with vegetables and shrip, Charles had Mahi-Mahi and Bethany couldn't resist another steak. Waiting for dessert to be delivered, Ashley fell asleep, so I had to poke her in the arm (with hindsight, I should have let her sleep so we could have stolen her dessert). Again we were fairly unified in ordering dessert, with most having flourless chocolate cake with walnut crust, but I had a butterscotch chantilly tart and Anna had lemon creme brulee. No wonder we slept well! It was too close to midnight when we got back to Maswick Lodge, and we were to meet Elaine the next morning at 7:00 am to hike down into the Canyon.
Monday, June 14, 2010
Day 11: Monument Valley to Grand Canyon National Park
Today was the big day. We drove into the Grand Canyon National Park from the northeast, following the canyon created by the Little Colorado River. Not only were we nearing our primary destination, but we were buoyed by the prospect of being back in beds after seven nights in sleeping bags.
Our first stop was at the Watch Tower, built by Mary Jane Coulter, the architect of many buildings, hotels and follys in the National Park. It was not, as we expected, under construction, however it was surrounded by scaffolding so the builders could inspect the structure in preparation for future construction! At first the views seemed unreal, like a giant backdrop where we could stand and have silly photos taken. The first time we all sat down on a wall at the base of the Watch Tower and looked out into the Grand Canyon, it was silent. No "ooh"s, no "ahh"s. Just quiet contemplation.
Next stop - Maswich Lodge, our home for the next three nights. Less than 5 minutes walk from the Canyon Rim, the rooms were comfortable. The beds, especially so. The private shower was nice, too. Following a short rest, we walked up along the Rim to find dinner at the Arizona Room. I can highly reccommend the Pulled Pork Quesadilla (appetizer) and any one of their steaks. I heard that the loaded mashed potatoes were also fantastic. After dinner, a further walk took us to the Mather Ampitheater to see Ranger Pat talk about Rock Art, petroglyphs and pictographs. The night was clear and we could see so many stars!
Our first stop was at the Watch Tower, built by Mary Jane Coulter, the architect of many buildings, hotels and follys in the National Park. It was not, as we expected, under construction, however it was surrounded by scaffolding so the builders could inspect the structure in preparation for future construction! At first the views seemed unreal, like a giant backdrop where we could stand and have silly photos taken. The first time we all sat down on a wall at the base of the Watch Tower and looked out into the Grand Canyon, it was silent. No "ooh"s, no "ahh"s. Just quiet contemplation.
Next stop - Maswich Lodge, our home for the next three nights. Less than 5 minutes walk from the Canyon Rim, the rooms were comfortable. The beds, especially so. The private shower was nice, too. Following a short rest, we walked up along the Rim to find dinner at the Arizona Room. I can highly reccommend the Pulled Pork Quesadilla (appetizer) and any one of their steaks. I heard that the loaded mashed potatoes were also fantastic. After dinner, a further walk took us to the Mather Ampitheater to see Ranger Pat talk about Rock Art, petroglyphs and pictographs. The night was clear and we could see so many stars!
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Day 10: Mesa Verde to Monument Valley, Arizona
By Mesa Verde, breaking camp was finally a well-rehearsed routine, just in time for our final night under canvas. Although we were not in a rush, we were keen to get to Monument Valley to see the famous scenery. Along the way, we took a 10-mile detour to visit Four Corners...which is under construction. Thanks to President Obama's Stimulus Bill, lots of national parks and monuments were under at least partial construction.
Anyways, Four Corners is the only place in America where four states meet at one point. It used to be a signpost in the ground, and they're building a new fancy concrete thing. And it's all the in wrong place, if you believe the crazy people at the US Geological Survey. So, instead of being able to stand in all four states at once, we walked a couple hundred feet outside the chainlink fence around the "official" four corners site, and we visited all four states of Arizona New Mexico, Utah and Colorado. It was also a surprisingly good place for shopping for Native American jewelery and crafts. We girls all picked out a bracelet with a Four Corners bead, and Charles got a t-shirt.
The drive through Utah's most southeasterly corner, and then into Arizona, was spectacular. Lots of photos were taken from inside the van, because the scenery was just too beautiful. A little rain welcomed us to the Valley, which seems unfriendly, but it brought with it a rainbow and some amazing colors in the clouds as the Sun set. Warning to anyone who would like to visit: the Monument Valley Navajo Park campground is VERY basic (1/4 mile walk to the nearest porta-potty and no running water). Of course, we skipped hot chocolate before bedtime to avoid excess trips overnight. But in my opinion, the views were worth it.
Anyways, Four Corners is the only place in America where four states meet at one point. It used to be a signpost in the ground, and they're building a new fancy concrete thing. And it's all the in wrong place, if you believe the crazy people at the US Geological Survey. So, instead of being able to stand in all four states at once, we walked a couple hundred feet outside the chainlink fence around the "official" four corners site, and we visited all four states of Arizona New Mexico, Utah and Colorado. It was also a surprisingly good place for shopping for Native American jewelery and crafts. We girls all picked out a bracelet with a Four Corners bead, and Charles got a t-shirt.
The drive through Utah's most southeasterly corner, and then into Arizona, was spectacular. Lots of photos were taken from inside the van, because the scenery was just too beautiful. A little rain welcomed us to the Valley, which seems unfriendly, but it brought with it a rainbow and some amazing colors in the clouds as the Sun set. Warning to anyone who would like to visit: the Monument Valley Navajo Park campground is VERY basic (1/4 mile walk to the nearest porta-potty and no running water). Of course, we skipped hot chocolate before bedtime to avoid excess trips overnight. But in my opinion, the views were worth it.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Day 9: Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado
junToday did not start well. It was raining off and on through the night, and this morning it changed to hail - pea-sized at the largest, but hail nonetheless. Plus it continued to rain off and on for the first half of the day. Ashley had a little altitude sickness, and Anna and Katelyn felt it a little, too. It meant we had a slow start to the day and didn't get up to the Visitors' Center until about 1:30 pm. The weather improved after that and we were able to take a Ranger-guided tour to the cliff dwellings.
As we have come to expect, the Rangers give very good tours and lectures, and on top of all that, Ranger Jose was a "friggin' genious", and a really funny guy! Because a lot of the cliff dwellings had already been restored before the National Park System made the decision to leave these things alone, we were able to walk around and upon some of the ruins. It was very interesting to think about why and how the Ancient Puebloans decided to live in buildings built into the mouth of a cave. We ate lunch late, at a picnic site further into the park, while we started our Junior Ranger booklets.
As we have come to expect, the Rangers give very good tours and lectures, and on top of all that, Ranger Jose was a "friggin' genious", and a really funny guy! Because a lot of the cliff dwellings had already been restored before the National Park System made the decision to leave these things alone, we were able to walk around and upon some of the ruins. It was very interesting to think about why and how the Ancient Puebloans decided to live in buildings built into the mouth of a cave. We ate lunch late, at a picnic site further into the park, while we started our Junior Ranger booklets.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Day 8: Albuquerque to Santa Fe to Mesa Verde
Another morning packing up our camp into the van. After a short drive to Santa Fe, we walked around Old Town and found a great restaurant for lunch, The Shed. It's tucked back into a little plaza and has lots of very short doors and uneven floors and mismatched tables and chairs. Charming in its disarray.
Our appointment at the Georgia O'Keefe museum was not diappointing. O'Keefe's abstract art was on display, with some of the paintings never being on public display before. Our docent led us through 60 years of art, starting with early experimentation through classic O'Keefe style to later efforts to just keep painting, despite blindness and arthritis. We then went across the road to the Museum's learning center and spent 45 minutes capturing our feelings with paper and chalk pastels.
After a little more shopping (doing our best to boost the American economy) we loaded into the van to drive to Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado. As we got to Durango, it was clouding over and getting cooler. We went up over 2000 feet in elevation getting to our campsite and as we put our tents up in the first few moments of darkness it was getting cold and a little rainy. So we all crawled into our sleeping bags to get warm and sleep.
Our appointment at the Georgia O'Keefe museum was not diappointing. O'Keefe's abstract art was on display, with some of the paintings never being on public display before. Our docent led us through 60 years of art, starting with early experimentation through classic O'Keefe style to later efforts to just keep painting, despite blindness and arthritis. We then went across the road to the Museum's learning center and spent 45 minutes capturing our feelings with paper and chalk pastels.
After a little more shopping (doing our best to boost the American economy) we loaded into the van to drive to Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado. As we got to Durango, it was clouding over and getting cooler. We went up over 2000 feet in elevation getting to our campsite and as we put our tents up in the first few moments of darkness it was getting cold and a little rainy. So we all crawled into our sleeping bags to get warm and sleep.
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Day 7: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Last night on our way to the Sandia Tram, we spotted a billboard for an impressionist art exhibit at the Albuquerque Museum of Art & History. We made a spot decision to skip Petroglyph State Park and go to the Museum. We spent the morning looking at 55 original paintings by Monet, Manet, Cezanne, Turner, Van Gogh, Renior, and a host of other artists. Althought not strictly associated with the Southwest, it was a great opportunity to see an exquisite private collection on display.
Then our group traveled a couple miles outside of Old Town to the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. When I lived in Albuquerque 20 years ago, they had just received funds to build the new Center, so I was excited to see it. We saw exhibits about Native Southwest pottery, Spanish mission art, and a modern exhibit paying tribute to the different Pueblo tribes. We also ate a fabulous lunch that included fresh guacamole, Indian fry bread and lots of carne adovado (spicy marinaded pork).
The rest of the afternoon was filled with shopping, followed by ice cream and a ghost tour of Old Town. It was good value for money, lasting 2.5 hours, instead of 1.5 hours, and none of us was carried away, assaulted or even approached by spectres. The tour included a lot about the history of Albuquerque and the Old Town Area, too, and an excellent Black Widow spider up in the corner of a doorway.
Then our group traveled a couple miles outside of Old Town to the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. When I lived in Albuquerque 20 years ago, they had just received funds to build the new Center, so I was excited to see it. We saw exhibits about Native Southwest pottery, Spanish mission art, and a modern exhibit paying tribute to the different Pueblo tribes. We also ate a fabulous lunch that included fresh guacamole, Indian fry bread and lots of carne adovado (spicy marinaded pork).
The rest of the afternoon was filled with shopping, followed by ice cream and a ghost tour of Old Town. It was good value for money, lasting 2.5 hours, instead of 1.5 hours, and none of us was carried away, assaulted or even approached by spectres. The tour included a lot about the history of Albuquerque and the Old Town Area, too, and an excellent Black Widow spider up in the corner of a doorway.
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